How to treat the “polypeptides” in skin care products

In the advertisements of skin care products, there are always various “buzzwords” or ingredients.
Like Dabao SOD honey, SOD is an antioxidant component (Superoxide dismutase, also known as liver protein and gluten, referred to as SOD).
These “buzzwords” or ingredients can be too powerful to ignore in ads. Many call them “miracles,” as Lamer, who recently ran a lawsuit, said in an AD that their product “brought back the old days to the founder who had suffered from burns.”
However, with the gradual understanding of the science and technology, product process and ingredients in skin care products, we gradually realize that it is the most important to understand the skin information and find the right ingredients for ourselves. Despite the fact, we always have countless impulses to use some products that seem to be able to appear “miracle”.

But in fact, not all advertising is false, in fact, many effects are verified by professionals in actual experiments.
For example, “peptides”, a skin-care ingredient, have become popular recently, which leads us to the topic of today’s discussion: peptides in skin-care products!
Peptides are widely believed to help stop the loss of collagen and promote its formation (which can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines).
The popular skin-care ingredient has found its way into stores in the form of cleansers, serums, creams and masks.
But what do peptides actually do?
Or is it just a marketing campaign by brands to incorporate the latest “collagen” craze?
We analyzed the literature from three leading Beverly Hills dermatologists, and I have to say the function of polypeptides is truly astounding!

What is a polypeptide?

In simple terms, polypeptides are small compounds composed of short chains of amino acids, which are the basic components of proteins. Compounds composed of 20-50 peptides become polypeptides.

So why are peptides so widely used in serums and creams?

Peptides are basically fragments of proteins.
So when they’re used in skin care products, the goal is to get those collagen fragments to stimulate collagen growth.
Whole, non-fragmentary proteins, such as collagen, cannot be absorbed directly through the epidermal layer of the skin, so these smaller fragments can penetrate deep into cells.

How do peptides work?

When used in skin care products, peptides are divided into three categories: signal peptides, carrier peptides and inhibitory nerve signal peptides.

By acting as messengers, signal peptides trigger the synthesis of collagen, which increases skin firmness.
In a very simple sense, as collagen breaks down, peptides act as an alarm system, telling our bodies to make more collagen to help replace what we naturally lose as we age.
So applying peptide-containing products directly to our skin can act as a fake alarm, tricking our skin into thinking it’s losing collagen and needs to produce more.

Carrier peptides help stabilize the delivery of trace elements (such as copper and manganese) into enzymatic reactions, which are essential for promoting collagen and elastin synthesis, new blood vessel growth, and wound healing.
Inhibition of neuro-signaling peptides can soften fine lines caused by muscle movement, like topical Botox.
To sum up, applying peptides to your skin is a way to let your skin know it has run out of collagen, and to produce and store more.

Peptides need advertised benefits

While other skin-care heroes, such as retinol (which helps keep skin vibrant and youthful), may cause redness, peeling or irritation.
But when peptides are used, there are only benefits, no side effects.

Peptides stimulate collagen production in the dermis, leading to healthier skin, smoother texture, fewer wrinkles and finer pores.

The loss of collagen, like the collapse of the skin’s internal scaffolding, can cause skin to sag and age.
As for inhibiting nerve signaling peptides, they can break down the communication between nerves and muscles, so if those muscles don’t contract, there will be less wear and tear, which in turn causes wrinkles to form more slowly, like crow’s feet and forehead lines.

Is there really no downside to peptides?

First, using peptides is a constant battle.
By the way they work, peptides don’t have an immediate effect like alpha-hydroxy acids or alpha-alcohols, but they take at least A few weeks or longer to see the effect.
Second, the skin’s natural defense mechanism keeps bacteria and other toxic molecules out.
So can peptides be absorbed when they touch the skin?
The answer is: not easily.
However, in order to solve these problems, scientists have used various technologies, such as modifying polypeptides with components such as palmitoyl and fatty acids, to effectively enhance skin absorption, perhaps by 5-10 times the original amount.
Often peptides that are already very effective can be modified to be particularly effective in skin care.

How to choose the right product?

In order to let the polypeptides of skin care products really play the magic effect claimed, choose skin care products to have the following characteristics:

Peptides must be present in stable skin care products so that they do not continue to be broken down.

  1. Peptides should be present in formulations that allow them to easily penetrate the skin barrier.
  2. The amount of polypeptides contained in the product is sufficient to produce reasonable clinical effects.

So peptides are more effective in the form of creams, creams or serums, applied twice a day, whereas peptides contained in cleansers have no effect.

The most popular skin-care products at the moment are Matrixyl (also called palmitoyl pentapeptides) and Argireline (also called Botox), which are designed to be effective.
Penta-peptide has anti-wrinkle, prevent elastin decomposition, promote collagen proliferation and other effects, in the anti-wrinkle effect is quick, mainly for dynamic and static lines, dry, lack of elasticity and loose skin can play a significant role.
Hexapeptide can effectively slow down frown lines, crow’s feet and tiny expression lines, help muscle relaxation, and has a good effect on the smoothing of dynamic wrinkles.

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